The Miao people, one of China’s oldest ethnic groups, have a rich history and a profound cultural heritage. According to historical records and oral traditions, the Miao ancestors originally lived in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River. Led by their ancestor Chiyou, they migrated to the Jianghan Plain during the "Three Miao" period. Over time, due to wars and other reasons, they gradually moved southwest.
Miao Traditional Costume in Shidong, Guizhou - Photo by photographer Ouhuo
The ancient Miao song, "Miao Ancient Songs," tells that the Miao people once had their own script. However, to avoid revealing their migration secrets to enemies during times of war, they had to destroy their written records. As the few literate individuals passed away, the Miao script was lost. Consequently, the Miao people turned to needle and thread, using embroidery to record their creation myths, migration history, and deep emotions on their clothing. This transformed Miao embroidery into a medium for preserving cultural memories. The imagery and motifs in Miao embroidery carry the legends and history of the Miao people, passed down through generations.
The Symbolism and Stories of Miao Embroidery
In the face of displacement, Miao embroidery has always been a cultural anchor and a symbol of identity for the Miao people. With its intricate patterns and profound cultural significance, it has inspired the Miao to persevere through adversity. While it may not be as ornate as Beijing embroidery, as delicate as Sichuan embroidery, or as elegant as Suzhou embroidery, Miao embroidery is renowned for its beautiful designs, unique shapes, and complex techniques. Each stitch tells a story, earning it the title of "unwritten epic" and a "living specimen" in Chinese costume history. It has been recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage.
One of the most enchanting legends about Miao embroidery dates back to ancient times. A female leader named Lan Juan used colorful threads to record the arduous migration journey of her people. She stitched a yellow line for crossing the Yellow River, a blue line for crossing the Yangtze River, and various symbols for mountains and rivers they traversed. By the time they reached their final destination, her clothes were covered with these intricate markings. Today, Miao women wear elaborate costumes during celebrations to honor their ancestors and remember their brave and wise forebears.
Miao Traditional Costume in Shidong, Guizhou - Photo by photographer Ouhuo
The Beauty of Miao Embroidery Patterns
Miao embroidery stands out for its ability to convey written imagery through its patterns, making it distinct from other ethnic embroideries. The motifs in Miao embroidery are offerings to ancestors and deities, imbued with unique spiritual energy. It serves as an "unwritten book" that chronicles the thousand-year history of the Miao people. Almost every pattern has a story or legend, reflecting the Miao culture and emotions, and showcasing their history and daily life.
Various Miao Embroidery Patterns Combination
Phoenix Bird Pattern in Miao Seed Embroidery Sleeve
Miao embroidery features a variety of intricate patterns, including butterflies, dragons, birds, fish, floral dots, and duckweed flowers. These designs, vividly depicted in "The Ancient Songs of the Miao," are known for their bright colors, rich imagination, clear compositions, and simplicity. The color schemes of Miao embroidery vary by region: Songtao area predominantly features flowers, birds, insects, and fish, using pink, turquoise, and purple for a more subdued palette. In Qiandongnan, dragons, fish, butterflies, and pomegranates are common motifs, with preferences for red, blue, pink, and purple. In the central region of Guizhou, long strips, rectangles, and diagonal lines form geometric patterns, with bright red, green, and indigo being favored. Renowned artist Liu Haisu praised Miao craftsmanship, stating, "Miao women craft with such skill, it's as if they weave clouds and cut the moon."
Miao "Hundred Bird Dress" Featuring Dragon Patterns
The butterfly pattern embroidered on ancient Miao clothing is one of the most common and significant cultural decorations. Beyond its vibrant appearance, the butterfly pattern is linked to the widely known Miao myth of the Butterfly Mother. In Miao beliefs, the Butterfly Mother and the celestial bird Dayu are considered ancestors and creators of the Miao people. Embroidering these butterfly and bird patterns onto clothing signifies respect and reverence for their ancestors, also symbolizing the union of yin and yang and the creation of life. These designs express the Miao ancestors' understanding of nature, the universe, and the origins of life.
Butterfly Pattern on Ancient Miao Clothing
Miao embroidery embodies a dynamic artistic spirit and core essence. The Miao ancestors revered the belief that all things have spirits, a principle known as "animism." This belief inspired Miao women to creatively express themselves through their embroidery, using objects to convey emotions and ideas. Miao embroidery does not follow strict patterns; instead, the Miao people embroider what they see in nature, following a philosophy of "Dao follows nature."
Dragon Pattern on the Shoulder and Sleeve of a Miao Garment
Unmarried Miao women, driven by their feelings for their beloved and unique creative logic, design, combine, and arrange patterns. Thus, the motifs on Miao wedding dresses are not copied or meticulously drawn, giving them a distinctive vitality and diverse beauty. The mysterious and elegant hues, combined with exquisite and vivid embroidery, reflect their love for life and unparalleled creativity.
Bird Pattern
The Techniques of Miao Embroidery
Miao embroidery is rich with various techniques, each with its own significance and story. Here are some of the most notable methods:
Flat Stitch Embroidery:
The basic technique where single-thread stitches are used to fill patterns, creating even and orderly designs.
Flat Embroidery Sleeve
Broken Thread Embroidery:
A sophisticated technique that involves splitting threads into finer strands for detailed and time-consuming embroidery, often used for wedding dresses and ceremonial attire.
Broken Thread Embroidery Detail
Braid Embroidery:
Used mainly in the Leishan area, this technique involves braiding threads into thick cords that are stitched onto fabric to create bold and robust patterns.
Braid Embroidery Dragon Pattern
Braid Embroidery Detail
Seed Embroidery:
An ancient method where each stitch forms a tiny knot, symbolizing resilience and continuity. This technique ensures that the design remains intact even if the fabric wears out.
Miao Seed Embroidery Jacket
Seed Embroidery Detail
Wrinkle Embroidery:
Similar to braid embroidery but with added texture by creating small pleats, giving the embroidery a three-dimensional effect.
Wrinkle Embroidery Piece
Miao Dragon Pattern Wrinkle Embroidery in Leishan Area
Tin Embroidery:
Unique to the Miao people of Jianhe, this method uses tin as the primary material, creating geometric patterns that shine on dark fabric, resembling silver jewelry.
Miao Tin Embroidery Clothing
Tin Embroidery Detail
Counted Thread Embroidery:
This widespread technique involves counting the fabric’s warp and weft threads to create symmetrical geometric patterns without a pre-drawn design.
Counted Thread Embroidery Sleeve
Horsehair Embroidery:
Colorful threads are wrapped around horsehair to create elastic, smooth outlines for patterns, often used in decorative elements.
Horsehair Embroidery
Stacked Embroidery:
Also known as applique, this method layers fabric pieces to form intricate designs, which are then stitched together, creating a textured and layered effect.
Stacked Embroidery Pattern
Stacked Embroidery Piece
Applique Embroidery
Each technique reflects the Miao people's ingenuity and deep cultural significance, turning their clothing into vibrant expressions of their heritage.
The Cultural Significance of Miao Embroidery
Miao traditional clothing, with its five-thousand-year history, is a cultural masterpiece. Miao embroidery is not just an art form but a historical record of the Miao people’s struggles, beliefs, and life stories. This cultural treasure, with its academic value and artistic appeal, continues to be appreciated by ethnologists, historians, and costume researchers.
Author: Xixiu
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